Ship happens

The owners of Jane, Jeffrey Lefcourt and Glenn Harris, aren't vague about the theme of their next spot: The Neptune Room Restaurant & Bait Bar is practically seaworthy. The dining room has the look of a graceful old yacht - ebony floors, candlelit mother-of-pearl niches, brass lamps. Guests are taken for a tour of costal Itlay, Spain and France with dishes like blue-crab panna cotta (pictured); roasted Atlantic branzino with calamari, carrots and baby spinach in mustard sauce; and roasted lobster with paella rice, chorizo, saffron and chili verde. The Bait Bar serves clever dishes nestled in crushed ice, such as cured white anchovies and shaved scallops. 511 Amsterdam Ave at 84th St (212-496-4100). - Michael Anstendig